Layne Randolph

ITALIA: FLORENCE AND SALENTO

SALENTO

There isn't a train I wouldn't take, no matter where it's going, in Italy (to paraphrase Edna St. Vincent Millay). But my favorite spots will always be: Florence, for the history and art, and the region of Salento for its breathtaking Adriatic coasts and down-home charm.

Salento is the tip of the heel of the boot that is Italy, and is an absolutely incredible place to visit. To learn everything you want to know about Salento, go to www.secretsalento.com which is full of tourist information and photos. Also read the article Secret Salento to learn what it's like to live in this magical place.

You May Have the Universe if I May Have Italy.

-Giuseppe Verdi

FLORENCE

Florence is famous for its art and history, but it is also full of great restaurants. Here are a few suggestions for off the beaten (tourist) path places to dine while you are in Florence:

Finisterrae It’s a rare treat to find a restaurant in Italy serving Mediterranean food from Lebanon, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, France and Italy under one roof – and what a colorful roof it is at Finisterrae. Belly dancers entertain as you dip your toasted pita into hummus or roasted, pureed eggplant while waiting at the bar in this restaurant’s hip and eclectic atmosphere. Although this restaurant is massive by Florentine standards, all of the nooks and crannies of its cleverly laid out dining rooms fill up quickly. Reservations recommended. MC/V. Closed Monday. Via dei Pepi, 3/5r, Firenze. (Piazza Santa Croce). Tel. 055.263.8675.

Osteria del Porcellino You will more likely than not find a group of Tuscans clinking glasses, celebrating some occasion or another at one of the long tables of Osteria del Porcellino. You’ll be tempted (and probably invited) to join. There is a decidedly open and welcoming feel to this place, aided in part by top quality food, modern artwork prominently displayed in an otherwise sedate Tuscan dining room, and mostly by Enzo, who always remembers your face, if not your name. The spinach and ricotta gnudi with walnut and sage is especially tasty, and the Pappa di Melanzane e Porcini (porcini and eggplant soup) is as satisfying as it is inventive. Major credit cards. Open 7 pm to 1 am. Via Val di Lamona, 7/r, Firenze. (Near Piazza Della Republicca). Tel. 055.264.148

Le Volpi e L’Uva If you can find a corner of the marble topped bar on which to set your glass of wine you will never want to leave, although this enoteca is a stop for wine tasters and lovers - not a stop for dinner - and closes at eight o’clock nightly. You can enjoy small plates of excellent cheeses and meats and small panini – but it is the wine that stands out here – each selection chosen for its perfect marriage of good quality/good value (generally small Italian producers are showcased). Check out the day’s wine suggestions scrawled on the blackboard behind the counter. Major credit cards. Open 10-8 Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday. Piazza di Rossi, 1, Firenze. (Near Palazzo Pitti). Tel. 055.239.8132.

Belle Donne Remember your image of an Italian trattoria before you ever saw one? You’ll have déjà vu when you walk into Belle Donne – you will be seated wherever space can be found in this small busy room, maybe sharing one of the tables covered in red and white checkered cloth with a small family. Vegetables and garlic ropes are hung from the ceiling and “chairs” are actually small bar stools and benches. Worth the possible wait (reservations not taken) and minor seating discomfort. Via Delle Belle Donne, 16/r, Firenze. (Near Santa Maria Novella). Midday to 3 pm, 8 pm to 1130 pm. Major credit cards. Closed Saturday Night and Sunday. Tel. 055.238.2609

L’Enoteca Fuori Porta Located just “outside the door” of Porta San Niccolo on the road to San Miniato in Oltrarno, this jostling and happy place houses one of the best and most varied wine selections in Florence. Off the typical tourist route, Fuori Porta draws in the locals with its traditional charm and good, solid Tuscan food. Open 12 pm to 1 am. Closed Sunday. Via Del Monte alle Croci, 10/r, Firenze. (San Niccolo). Tel. 055.234.2483

And if you are in Florence and want to take a culinary tour with an expert, contact my friend Emily Wise-Miller, author of The Food Lover's Guide to Florence. She gives all types of tours related to Florentine & Tuscan cuisine.